A kitchen refit is one of the most electrically intensive jobs in the house. Even a straightforward like-for-like kitchen replacement usually involves moving sockets, adding circuits and upgrading the cooker point. A full extension or open-plan remodel can require substantially more work. This guide covers what the electrical side of a kitchen project actually involves, how Part P applies, what the correct socket layout looks like, and what a realistic cost is for Mid Somerset in 2026.
Why Kitchen Electrics Are More Complex Than Other Rooms
Kitchens are different from other rooms for three reasons:
- High-load appliances — a cooker or range on a 45A or 50A circuit, a dishwasher and washing machine each on a dedicated fused spur, a fridge-freezer, a microwave, a kettle and toaster all running simultaneously. The diversity of load is higher than any other room.
- Part P notifiable — all new circuits in a kitchen are notifiable under Part P of the Building Regulations. Unlike, say, adding a socket to an existing ring main in a bedroom (which may not be notifiable), any new circuit in a kitchen is in scope.
- Space constraints — routing cables after a kitchen is fitted is extremely difficult. The electrical first-fix must happen before units are installed.
What a Full Kitchen Electrical Fit-Out Involves
Socket ring main or radial circuit
Most kitchens run a dedicated socket circuit — either a ring final circuit (up to 100m², up to 32A, protected by a 32A RCBO) or a radial circuit (smaller kitchens). The socket circuit is separate from the rest of the house to handle the kitchen’s demand without affecting other circuits. A typical fitted kitchen needs 10–14 double socket outlets positioned around the worktop perimeter — every 600mm above the worktop is a reasonable working rule, with additional outlets at peninsula or island positions.
Cooker or range circuit
Any electric cooker or range requires a dedicated circuit: 6mm² cable on a 45A or 50A RCBO, terminating at a cooker control unit (a double-pole switch with a neon indicator). Induction hobs draw significant current and the cable must be sized to the hob’s rated load — check the installation manual before ordering cable. Gas hobs with electric ignition only need a switched fused spur, not a dedicated circuit.
Extractor fan circuit
An extractor fan or cooker hood typically runs from a fused connection unit (FCU) rather than a plug. The FCU is usually on the kitchen socket circuit or occasionally on the lighting circuit depending on the hood’s wattage. Ductless recirculating hoods are simpler to install; ducted hoods require a route through the wall or ceiling which is the builder’s scope but must be agreed before first-fix.
Dishwasher and washing machine spurs
A dishwasher and washing machine each require a switched fused spur (13A FCU) located in an accessible position, typically inside the adjacent cabinet. These are usually on the kitchen socket ring rather than dedicated circuits unless the load calculation requires separation.
Under-cabinet lighting
LED strip or puck lighting beneath wall units runs from a dedicated switched fused spur on the lighting circuit or from a low-voltage transformer. The transformer must be accessible for maintenance — inside a wall unit with a ventilation gap is the standard approach.
Downlights and main lighting circuit
Most modern kitchens use LED downlights, typically on a switched dimmer. If the kitchen is open-plan, multiple lighting zones are common: task lighting over the worktop, ambient lighting in the dining or living area, and feature lighting over an island. Each zone should be on a separate switch leg so they can be controlled independently.
Islands and peninsulas: cable planning is critical
If you are adding a kitchen island or peninsula, the sockets on it need cables that run under the floor or through the structure — they cannot be surface-run. This must be planned before the floor screed or structural elements go in. Islands are the most common area where electrical planning is left too late, resulting in either an ugly surface trunking solution or expensive retrofitting.
Part P: What’s Notifiable in a Kitchen
Under Part P of the Building Regulations, the following work in a kitchen is notifiable:
- Any new circuit (socket circuit, cooker circuit, extractor, lighting)
- Any new consumer unit or distribution board
- Any addition to an existing circuit if the work is in a special location
A registered electrician (NAPIT, NICEIC) self-certifies the work — they test it to BS 7671, issue an Electrical Installation Certificate, and notify their scheme automatically. You receive a Part P completion certificate which is required documentation when you sell the property. Without it, a solicitor will flag the work and you may need a retrospective inspection.
Consumer Unit Capacity
A full kitchen refit typically adds two to four new circuits: socket ring, cooker, extractor and lighting. If your existing consumer unit has spare ways and adequate capacity, the new circuits can be added without replacing the board. If the board is full or an older non-18th Edition type, an upgrade is the correct solution.
| Scenario | Typical outcome |
|---|---|
| Modern 18th Ed CU with 3+ spare ways | Add RCBOs, no board replacement |
| Modern CU, 1–2 spare ways | May need larger board depending on circuits required |
| Older split-load CU | Consumer unit upgrade recommended |
| Rewirable fuse board | Consumer unit upgrade required |
First Fix and Second Fix: Timing with the Kitchen Fitter
Kitchen electrical work happens in two stages and the timing must be coordinated with the kitchen fitter:
- First fix — before units are installed. All cables are run and chased in (or surface run if appropriate), back boxes positioned at the correct height for the worktop, cooker point positioned correctly, island cables dropped below floor if applicable. Consumer unit work typically also happens at first fix.
- Second fix — after units are fitted and decorated. Socket plates, switches, cooker control unit and FCUs are fitted and connected. The installation is tested end-to-end and the Part P certificate issued.
The most common and expensive mistake in kitchen projects is fitting units before the electrician has done the first fix. Routing cables through a fitted kitchen requires either core-drilling through the back of cabinets (unsightly), chasing the wall behind plinths (disruptive), or surface trunking (never ideal in a new kitchen). The programme should be: strip out → electrician first fix → plastering/screeding → decoration → kitchen fitter → electrician second fix.
Socket heights matter
Standard socket back boxes in a kitchen go 150mm above finished worktop height — which means knowing the worktop height before first fix. A 900mm-high worktop puts sockets at 1,050mm from floor. On a 870mm standard worktop they sit at 1,020mm. Confirm the worktop height and unit depth with the kitchen designer before setting back boxes, or you end up cutting new holes after the units are in.
Typical Costs for Kitchen Electrics in Mid Somerset (2026)
| Scope | Indicative cost (inc VAT) |
|---|---|
| Like-for-like replacement: reuse existing circuits, add 2–3 sockets | from £480 |
| New kitchen: full first fix + second fix, existing CU has spare ways | from £720 |
| New kitchen + consumer unit upgrade | from £1,100 |
| Open-plan kitchen/diner with island, multiple lighting zones | from £1,350 |
| Kitchen extension with new circuits + CU upgrade + additional rooms affected | from £1,800 |
All prices include materials, installation, testing, and Part P certification. Indicative only — actual cost confirmed at survey.
Where We Work
DS Electrical covers Wells, Shepton Mallet, Bath, Frome, Radstock, Midsomer Norton, Cheddar, Street, Bruton, Castle Cary, Wincanton and surrounding villages across Mid Somerset and BANES. We carry out kitchen electrical first-fix and second-fix, consumer unit upgrades, and issue all Part P documentation on completion.
Call 07889 334849 or use the quote button below to discuss your kitchen project.